by Glenn Anders » Sun Feb 10, 2008 5:57 pm
As one who may have stood on or near the very spot where Oja's Orson now strides confidently seaward in the generous harbor of Split, let me second Christopher's commendation of Larry French's addition to the Main Page. My bride Grace and our children, by chance, spent almost a week there in 1970, perhaps unknowingly passing near where Welles and Miss Kodar were hatching new artistic projects.
Another reason, it occurs to me, that Welles may have liked this great old Adriatic port is that it was here that the Emperor Diocletian divided the Roman Empire in two, and having insured its soundness another hundred years, wisely retired from his contentious reign in 305 A.D. to his birthplace, for the last ten years of his life, in order to personally grow cabbages. When beseeched to return to power, he is said to have replied: "If you could show the cabbage that I planted with my own hands to your emperor, he definitely wouldn’t dare suggest that I replace the peace and happiness of this place with the storms of a never-satisfied greed."
Welles might similarly have said: "You can have Hollywood. I'll take Dalmatia!"
Diocletian's great palace, ten years in the preparatory building, remains a vital town center, a kind of modern ancient mall, and I can imagine Welles and Oja strolling through its markets, past statues of forgotten warriors and martyrs, while selecting the excellent cabbages, olive oil, wine, and fish that coast still produces. In fact, if I am not mistaken, it is on this harbor's edge where Miss Kodar sits, watching the Sun set over the coastal islands, as she listens to Welles last love letter to her, at the end of the Sedlar Brothers' little seen SEARCHING FOR ORSON.
It is a truly magical moment.
Glenn